The idea of home-style Italian food done really, really well seems to be the underlying theme of Toronto’s new Italian hideaway, Buca. The unassuming decor- bare brick walls, wood floors and bare light fixtures- allow diners to focus on the food first and foremost. And what amazing food it is. Chef Rob Gentile, who trained under Mark McEwan at One and North 44, has gone back to his Italian roots, focusing on high quality local ingredients and expert charcuterie. He has created Buca, along with the owners of Brasaii and Jacobs and Co. Steakhouse.
Nodini
Beet salad
We started with an assortment of perfectly cured meats, house-marinated olives, and delicious little knotted bread rolls, aptly named nodini. To cut the salty richness of the antipasti course, we sided it with a beet salad which was light and flavourful and tucked under a layer of fiore di latte cheese. If you’re going to eat at Buca, the meat in the first course is a no-brainer. The salsiccine, perfectly cured little slivers of sausage, are well-seasoned and slightly spicy. The bison prosciutto was another favourite at our table, a bit more gamey than pork prosciutto, but soft and tender when eaten. The meats come with a variety of pickled lentils that also help to cut the salt and fat.
Butternut squash risotto
Nova Scotia sea bass
Although Buca has gained quite a reputation for its pizzas, which come with either a white sauce or a zesty red sauce and varied toppings, we decided to skip this course. After all, you can’t have everything in one night, and pizza just felt superfluous. We did, however, dive right in to the pasta course with gusto. The butternut squash risotto, which can only be ordered for two, was buttery and sweet and topped with shaved duck that was beautifully cured. The server did inform us that, as the risotto is made completely to order, it requires a wait of about 25 minutes- we got our risotto in fifteen. The gnocchi, tossed in a light, rich tomato sauce came at the same time; it was fragrantly seasoned with basil, and coated in a perfect amount of sauce. The Nova Scotia sea bass, which also accompanied our pasta entrees, was lightly topped with beautiful little green olives.
Gelatti
Pannacotta
Although every course was excellent, dessert was by far the winner at our table. The gelato menu had three types of gelato and three sorbets- we opted for the pear and vanilla sorbet, pumpkin gelato and milk and honey gelato. The pumpkin gelato was beautifully spiced with all the flavours of fall. The pear-vanilla sorbet was light and refreshing, and the milk and honey gelato was smooth and sweet. The balance of rock salt and nuts added a sharp, salty edge to the sweet frozen treats which suited them perfectly. The pannacotta and tiramisu, which we ordered with the gelatti, were both gorgeously smooth and creamy, and exactly as they should be.
Our wine selection that evening was a Piemonte Barolo, which was a rich and full-bodied red. It was well worth the $130 we spent on the bottle. Although the selection of after-dinner wines looked amazing, we opted for espressos with our desserts, which were as perfect as the rest of our meal.
The food is definitely the star of the show at Buca, but the low-key decor and pleasant wait staff all play into making this King Street eatery a fabulous dining experience. For four people, eating basically family-style (and eating very well, I might add!), the bill came to about $600. Worth every penny.
Buca is located on 604 King Street West. Reservations can be made by calling 416-869-1600 or at Open Table.
