With a growing number of wineries, fine dining establishments, well-groomed beaches, not to mention a thriving arts scene, Ontario’s Prince Edward County is recognized as a summer playground with prestige. It was even referred to recently as “the Hamptons of the North.” But while PEC hasn’t quite attracted all of New York high society – Billy Joel and Martha Stewart haven’t taken up residence, yet – there is no denying that this once staid community is appearing on many a socialite’s travel radar.
View of the Drake Devonshire Inn and Glass Box Building, in warmer weather
And what’s helping to put this destination in the spotlight? Arguably, the newly-opened Drake Devonshire Inn located in the village of Wellington. Of course, the Drake Hotel’s reputation for hipster chic has been growing steadily since its inception over ten years ago, starting with its flagship hotel on Toronto’s Queen Street West (where an overnight stay is secondary to the buzzy bar, restaurant scene and parade of indie bands who play in the basement venue); the Drake “General Store” lifestyle concept retail outlets (filled with trinkets that could be described as “quirky Canadiana”); and more recently, the Drake One Fifty restaurant (boldly located in the city’s financial district). Now, following a two-year renovation of a 1800s foundry building, owner Jeff Stober has decided to expand his trademark kitschy-cool brand into winery territory.
Currently under an extended “preview” until next spring, the Drake Devonshire is fully-operational and already quite busy. (It was hopping even on the Black Friday/Grey Cup Sunday/Cyber Monday weekend, when its target demographic would have been very preoccupied). The two-hour ride from Toronto may feel like a bit of a haul, but the Drake brand travels well.
Owner’s Suite
There are 11 rooms and two suites in total that are all fairly similar in layout; each features a modern marble and glass shower filled with Malin & Goetz products; curated snack trays; and a Bose Bluetooth wireless speaker. The largest room, the Owner’s Suite, also contains a fireplace, a balcony and a lovely view of the water. All of the rooms are adorned with unique poems by the late Al Purdy, a custom mural behind each bed along with handmade dolls perched atop the beds.
The common areas are teeming with an eclectic mix of artwork and there is a cozy living room with a fireplace. There is also a micro Drake General Store at reception and an ironic photo-booth (a must-have at boutique hotels, it seems) located near the staircase. The modern, square-shaped Glass Box meeting and games room that juts out of the 19th century main lodge seems almost an affront to the traditional styling of country inns, but in a good way. At the other end of the property, the Pavilion Building where live music is showcased features a large street-art mural by Brooklyn artist Faile.
The dining room under the direction of Head Chef Matt DeMille is a faithful adaptation of the Toronto Drake restaurants, though with an emphasis on local wines, naturally. The menu celebrates farm- and lake-to-table dishes and locally-sourced produce, but it also includes favourite items from the city’s restaurant menu (Blueberry Scones, Fried Chicken with Waffles). Still, the floor-to-ceiling windows and the endless view of Lake Ontario definitely set this Drake property apart from its Toronto cousins.
View of the lake, in warmer weather
Meanwhile, Innkeeper/Operations Manager Chris Loane along with the rest of the Drake Dev team have been busy mapping out the hotel’s future plans. There may be spa treatments come summertime and seasonally-based activities and excursions are in the works (snow-shoeing in the winter, fishing in the summer). And, in keeping with the Drake’s longstanding support of Canadian creators (Loane is ex of Halifax power pop band The Grace Babies, btw), there will be poetry readings, live bands, artists-in-residence and pop-up craft markets throughout the year (during my recent stay, renown chef Jamie Kennedy hosted a pop-up restaurant).
And what if guests feel the need to take a break from the Drake-on-the Lake? There are some worthwhile escapes within driving distance (and in the case of a fabulous lunch and breakfast spot, the Tall Poppy Café and the upscale East and Main Bistro, within a few minutes walking distance from the Inn). The aforementioned wineries are mainly located in nearby Picton County, as is the self-guided Arts Trail. In addition, the Agrarian Cheese Market & Speakeasy, the arts and accessories shop, Kokito and the village of Bloomfield (off the Loyalist Parkway) featuring fine artisan, craft and antique shops, are all also in close proximity. But if things go according to plan, the Drake Devonshire may well be keeping you busy both day and night.
Photos supplied courtesy of the Drake Hotel Properties.