I consider myself quite lucky to have had exposure to different types of cuisine, especially “real” or “authentic” versions of “ethnic foods.” However, what I find very interesting is how different names are applied to North Americanized “ethnic” foods, depending on the type of restaurant and how it is presented. Take Chinese food, for example. Chinese food can be found in virtually any town in Canada. However, what people call “Chinese food” in a tiny Canadian town – ones with menus generally consisting of chicken balls and egg rolls – is NOT authentic. It wouldn’t be foods that you’d find at a Chinese restaurant in, say, Markham. However, we don’t call, say, grilled salmon with miso served with baby greens and cold soba noodles “fake Japanese food.” Instead, it gets the moniker of “fusion.”
Fried wonton salad
Why is this so? It’s all about presentation and marketing. Small town Chinese restaurants usually serve food at a much more affordable price point. In addition, the presentation is generally average to even bad – no better than what one would find at the food court at a mall. Sure, it’s comfort food – who doesn’t want to munch on high carb, high fat delivery Chinese while watching an old movie on a rainy evening. On the other hand, cuisine labelled as “fusion” is always presented not just on “real plates,” but usually look much more “artistic.” That, plus restaurants with proper linens (rather than the plastic “table cloths”), good decor and service (and perhaps a celebrity chef), as well as a higher price point make the difference. Then, there is, of course the marketing. If social media, journalists and advertising all decide that something is “fusion,” then the rest of the world will too.
Now is this a good thing? Sure. It’s bringing new cuisines. People get tired of eating the same things over and over. Old school types might not like it, but they’re also people who generally aren’t as experimental with food. At the same time, there are those who are more hypocritical. They’ll say that they like the “real” ethnic cuisines, but will indulge on what many may call “fake” – either the chicken balls or, if they’re from Hong Kong, foods one might find at a cha chaan teng. These establishments are found all over Hong Kong as well as in Chinese communities in the west. The menus usually consist of items like pastas in broth, rice platters with pork chops cooked in condensed tomato soup as well as Hong Kong tea (evaporated milk, sugar and strong black tea) or yeen-yeung (Hong Kong tea mixed with coffee). Cha chaan teng lovers will argue that it’s “real” because it’s Hong Kong cuisine – unique and different from standard Cantonese fare – even if presentation is generally poor to awful (service, while sitdown is very quick). If that’s the case, then one can argue that North Americanized ethnic cuisine is just as “real” – one doesn’t need the artistry or high prices to make it more “real. ” Besides, this is a society made up of immigrants and one can arguably say that fusion brings different cultures together, which is a good thing.
Image from: MountainHardcore/Shutterstock
