The Cantonese have a unique term for individuals of Chinese descent raised in a western country – jook sing (hollow bamboo) – not Chinese, but not really “western” (appearance-wise) either. That is exactly what Toronto’s House of Chan is. Though this restaurant, which has been around for over 50 years, serves old school style Canadianized Chinese food like chop suey and egg rolls, it’s probably better known for its western fare – steak and lobster. In fact, it can probably be compared with many of the steak houses in the city in both taste and price (a 16 oz New York sirloin is $52.62). However, it definitely does not have the look or feel of a steak restaurant, but more of the Chinese restaurants one may find in this city back when it first opened in the 1950s.
New York Sirloin
This is NOT a place to order Chinese main courses. The Chinese menu is very limited and those used to items served at restaurants in suburban Chinese areas like Agincourt and Markham will be very disappointed (they have “egg rolls” but not spring rolls. Chow mein is available but not ho fun.) Steak (or lobster) is the thing to eat here. Two of the best to order are the New York sirloin and the Prime Rib Eye (both available in 12 and 16 oz sizes). The steaks come with home style potatoes, fried onions as well as fresh sliced veggies or salad. The steaks ordered were broiled medium rare, with the sides being more well-done. Though the beef was pretty much perfect – juicy, tender and seasoned “just right”, there was a bit too much fat in each piece. Also, the mustard, which along with hoisin sauce (which, by the way, goes well with the potatoes) was available to further season food, was a little too spicy. The fresh vegetables, which are extremely juicy, come with sliced tomatoes, onions as well as celery and 1,000 island salad dressing as dip. The sauteed mushrooms and asparagus are good sides to order (though if you prefer something more Chinese, try the snow pea leaves (which I was surprised they had)). Appetizers? There are many. If you are a meat eater, the barbecued ribs are a good choice. Most of the appetizers are Chinese-influenced.
Fortune Cookies
Because of its “old school Chinese restaurant” vibe, House of Chan is quite casual. Unlike many steak restaurants (or even modern fusion places) there is little pretentiousness and no dress code. Family-style sharing of food is also not frowned upon. Also, in keeping with a bit of the Canadianized “east”, diners are not served bread (they don’t “do” bread at the restaurant), but crispy chow mein snacks. Dessert? There’s very little choice – ice cream and key lime pie. Of course, there are also fortune cookies. House of Chan is perhaps the only steak restaurant in the world that offers that, making them truly unique.
House of Chan is located in the Forest Hill area at 876 Eglinton Avenue West (near Bathurst). Phone is 416-781-5575. They do not take reservations.
