The premiere date for the final episodes of Mad Men has been set (April 5, mark your calendars) and fans of the show are already lamenting the end of what is widely considered to be the greatest series in the history of television. With its nuanced performances, outlandish plot twists and colourful wardrobe, this period drama offers an intriguing portrayal of the 1960s. Another important hallmark of the series? The dazzling set designs depicting that era.
Don Draper (Mad Men) arrives in Palm Springs
To be sure, Mad Men’s sets were always given the same painstaking attention to detail as the other elements of the show. The series had a knack for sounding the right notes in terms of historical accuracy and the show’s set designs were no exception. Since the 1960s saw the dawn of the modernist movement in America, the show celebrated this form.
In terms of its history, the modernist movement in the U.S. grew out of an optimistic, post-war mentality and was later influenced by the most significant event of the 1960s, man landing on the moon. So there was a move away from the conservative sensibilities of the 50s (think Don, Betty and the kids in their Westchester, NY bungalow) to a space-age aesthetic that included open-concept living and ample windows (Don’s Manhattan apartment; or the hypnotic black-and-white Op Art in Roger’s office). But perhaps Mad Men’s most eye-catching example of modernism was seen in the episode when Don famously blew off an important business meeting in L.A. to party with a group of international jetsetters at a stunning futuristic house located in Palm Springs.
Edris House
Indeed, whether lost in Mad Men fantasyland or back in the real world, nowhere will you find a better concentration of beautiful, mid-century modernist architecture than in Palm Springs, known as a haven for Hollywood elite. The list of screen legends who took up residence in this sunny locale is endless: Elvis, Marilyn, members of the Rat Pack, you name it. But these A-listers take a back-seat to the real stars of Palm Springs: the architectural trailblazers who started the mid-century modernism movement. So, when we see Don Draper arrive in Palm Springs, we are entirely swept away by the spacious modernist design of the house, without even knowing that this was actually the former home of Frank Sinatra.
During a recent visit to Palm Springs, I took a crash course in mid-century modernism, courtesy of Palm Springs Modern Tours. Led by Robert Imber, a mid-century modernism preservationist, the small tour group learns about the origins of these buildings. Imber has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the form and its founders. He describes in great detail common elements of the structures: geometric lines; the use of industrial materials; open-floor concepts; and floor-to-ceiling windows – all of which are integrated into the natural elements of the desert. The result is a seamless blend of interiors and exteriors. Imber also shows the group some mid-century commercial developments, civic structures and well-known golf courses (after its mid-century heyday, Palm Springs became better known as a retirement community and a popular place to golf). These buildings depict an interesting paradox of retro-cool and 21st century modernity.
Unquestionably Palm Springs preservationists have done an amazing job of maintaining the buildings’ heritage. But while these haunts wield a certain amount of old-school charm, the majority of them have been updated with modern amenities to appeal to a new generation of visitors: Gen X-ers and millennials who are fascinated by the Mad Men era they never got to witness first-hand. It would seem that Palm Springs is experiencing a cultural renaissance.
Ace Hotel pool
Naturally, the area also has a number of noteworthy hotels and to choose among them is challenging. There is the old-school styling of the Parker Palm Springs; the popular Orbit In Motel, with its remarkable atomic motifs; and the colourful, fiesta-like Saguaro Hotel. I settled on the Ace Palm Springs.
Admittedly the Ace Palm Springs is probably closer to Portlandia than it is to Mad Men – the hipster-cool hotel chain in fact started in Seattle. The atmosphere can be described as “nomad-chic” – an acoustic guitar perched in the lobby; dormitory-style guest rooms and an onsite diner (formerly a roadside Denny’s). The bones of this former Westward Ho/Howard Johnson Motel remain intact but the décor is decidedly modern kitsch: Vespas are available on loan, vinyl turntables are placed in the rooms, and desserts are served in Mason jars. Despite these trendy trappings, the ambience is still stunning. Spend a few minutes by the gorgeous pool surrounded by the San Jancinto mountain range and cobalt-blue sky, and you will not want to budge. And the property’s Feel Good Spa, with its co-ed steam room and rustic relaxation area, will leave guests feeling very blissed-out.
So, you might be wondering, would the boys of Mad Men fit in at the Ace Palm Springs? Suffice it to say, guests of the communal-like hotel probably wouldn’t have much time for the likes of stodgy Bert Cooper, and even less time for smarmy Pete Campbell. At least that’s the impression one is left with. But no matter: there are still plenty of places around Palm Springs where these guys could play a round of golf or sip an “Old Fashioned” and feel completely at home.
Photo stills from MAD MEN ©AMC TV, Inc. All rights reserved.
Palm Springs Modern Tours provided by Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism www.visitpalmsprings.com
Edris House photo (early example of mid-century modernism) courtesy of Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism
Accommodations subsidized and photo of hotel pool courtesy of the Ace Hotel Palm Springs
