At Shorty Stories yesterday, I wrote about Toronto model agent, Ben Barry, who a few years ago, opened a modelling agency which promoted a wide range of sizes. I criticized him for the lack of true size diversity, considering that he only has six models shorter than 5’7″ or below on his roster (make that five. One of the women is 5’7 1/2″). While I understand that designers prefer taller figures presenting their clothes (though I think it’s mostly conditioning), height isn’t always necessary. Modelling isn’t only about clothing, after all. What really bugs me most is when tall, slim women are used for hair or beauty shows. It’s completely unnecessary, but is still often done. Why? A 4’10”, size 8 woman shouldn’t affect hair or make-up. In fact, a fashion-focused agency wouldn’t even be the first place I’d call if I were looking for such models (one reason why I was a little bit critical about the use of models from Ford at the ColdSore-FX event back in April).
“Non-standard” (left and centre) and “standard” sized models from VAWK’s Fall/Winter 2010 show at the Art Gallery of Ontario, March 2010. VAWK is known to use a more diverse group of models in its shows compared to other designers.
Then there’s the whole issue regarding specialty sizing. While Ben has certainly upped the ante with larger-sized models, especially at VAWK’s shows, much more needs to be done regarding height. Designers shouldn’t be afraid to request shorter (even average-heighted) models for the runway. I’ve spoken with many designers who say that they “have to” put clothes on 6′ girls. No, you don’t “have to.” You CHOOSE TO. A runway show can work just as well using women average-heighted women or even short women. It’s just that we’ve become so accustomed to a certain look that makes things “look weird” according to some people. If we’re able to accept 5’10”, size 12 models at VAWK, we can most certainly accept 5’5″, size 4 women. In fact, one can arguably say that the latter fits the “slimmer ideal” MORE than the 5’10, size 12, proportionately speaking. After all, we see 5’4″, size 4 women more often than we think. The sample sizes excuse is also nonsense. A collection has more than one piece. One ensemble can be made in a, say, 2P and modelled by a woman who is 5’3″ and another can be made in a size 16 if some designers are already making “larger” sample sizes for their shows, especially if the brand has a petite line. As for average and short women not looking as good on the runway, if that were the case, then celebrities would never be used!
We really need to start thinking about all kinds of diversity. Most articles on this subject tend to focus on ethnicity or dress size, while height is not just dismissed, but not discussed at all. I’ve reached out to plenty of body image activists outside of the petite community to get their views on this very issue, but have received little feedback from them. Diversity is important, yes, but we need to have all kinds of diversity. In fact, one can say it’s arguably more important to see people who’re similarly sized than those who’re of a similar ethnic background.