Recently, I had the opportunity to interview Dale Noelle, a former model and founder of TRUE Model Management, a New York-based agency representing models of all sizes. Ms. Noelle has been involved with the apparel industry since she was very young. She worked at her father’s clothing factories and later owned her own apparel business where she wore many hats as a designer, production manager and sales person. She moved on to become a very successful fit model represented by a major agency for almost twenty years. Eventually, she started an agency for herself with a manager which eventually evolved into TRUE Model Management. In addition to running TRUE, she is a health coach and instructor at The Fashion Institute of Technology.
Dale Noelle
Ms. Noelle on why TRUE Model Management represents different sized models and how it differs from “fashion” agencies’ plus sized divisions:
TRUE represents fit models as well as runway, commercial and fashion print models. It’s about the clients’ needs. Designers and manufacturers fit garments for production on well-proportioned fit models to confirm that the sizes and proportions are comfortable and flattering on most consumers in a broad range of sizes. These companies need to work with models who represent their average customer and are true to size. Historically, standard size clothing was fit on one size, usually size 8, and graded up and down to fit sizes 2-14. Currently, the size range has increased and many companies offer female sizes 0 or 00, up to size 20 or higher. The proportions for sizes over 14 are graded differently than the standard range and plus fit models who are size 16 and up are in great demand. Companies sometimes request to work with models within the entire size range and conduct “size set” fittings to compare the proportions of each size garment on live models.
Plus fashion print models are typically size 10 and larger. Even though they do not always represent the production size or real life plus woman, it appears that it may be the industry’s attempt to include models with more curves, even if they are not truly “plus”. Overall, most magazines feature people who are slimmer than average and have some element of idealism or fantasy so the images are not usually representative of average people or fit models.
Since TRUE Model Management started as a fit modeling agency and expanded into all divisions of modeling, we understand sizing as well as other aspects of the fashion industry. Most fashion-only agencies don’t represent or understand the “real-life” models.
On whether specific requirements are still required, despite representing diverse sizes:
Yes, there are specific requirements for models regardless of size. The most requested models are extremely professional and punctual, optimistic, enthusiastic, cheerful, have clear, healthy skin, evenly proportioned and toned bodies and are photogenic.
Requirements are based on the requests from advertisers, designers and manufacturers. For fit models, standards for average body measurements/sizes have been established by companies such as ASTM (based on votes by industry professionals ) and Alvanon (based on scans of thousands of bodies). Sizes requested by clients are loosely based on established standards but there is no governing entity to monitor sizing and every client establishes their own range of required measurements/specifications.
On whether it’s easy for non-tall and slim models to get work in the fit world:
Female models who are sizes 0-4 and 5’9”, and taller and male models 6’ and taller with suit size 38, usually book more print and runway jobs. Female models sizes 4-20 who are 5’6”-5’8” tall, and Male models 5’10-“5’11” with suit sizes 38 and larger, typically work more fit modeling jobs. Petite models 5’2”-5’3” also work as fit models but there is usually less work from each account when compared to standard size models’ businesses.
On the non-fit modeling industry and why brands and agencies tend to look for specific sizes:
Much of it has to do with conditioning, the desire to have clothes look like they’re on hangers and pure fantasy – it’s what many brands believe the public wants to see.
On why some non-fashion events (skincare, hair, etc…) still use fashion-looking models rather than a variety of sizes:
Thinner models often have more angular faces and most believe that the camera and viewers love great angles. High-fashion models often exude a look that is not easily attainable and brands may want to advertise a unique fantasy. It could possibly be because those companies are only working with traditional fashion agencies who only represent very slim models.
On why “size diversity” usually means ““let’s use larger sized models of the same height as ‘regular’ models” rather than “let’s use models of all heights and sizes.”:
Being inclusive of size diversity, including height, is a step-by-step process. Embracing fuller figures is only the beginning.
Thoughts on the size 10 model in the CK lingerie ad last month and whether it was all a gimmick:
I do not believe it was a gimmick. I modeled for Calvin Klein for almost two decades and I am happy to see that their brand is now advertising “curves”. The media most likely called Myla Dalbesio “plus” because the fashion print model industry still considers models over size 6 or 8 larger than standard. For fashion print work, Myla is curvier than Calvin’s “standard” and size 10 is often referred to as “plus” in the print modeling industry even though size 16+ is considered “plus” in the production fit modeling industry.
On whether there’s anything additional to say about TRUE Model Management and size diversity:
TRUE embraces diversity with a focus is on promoting healthy life choices.
For more information on True Model Management, please visit: www.truemodel.net
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