Tourists have long travelled through India in search of spirituality. According to market research, they are looking more and more specifically to yoga, especially in Rishikesh, the oft-cited yoga capital of the world.
Meditation by the Ganges
1,000 students from 100 countries have studied at Rishikesh Yog Peeth (RYP) since 2010, and that’s one of about 15 ashrams surrounding the city. I, personally, saw some appeal in the culture shock India promised and some mysticism in studying an ancient practice in its still-existent land of origin.
In Canada, like many countries, yoga is part of the fitness industry, sold as a path to leaner, stronger bodies. In India, it’s a way of life. Ashrams teach history, meditation and philosophy in addition to yoga’s physical practice, asana.
As more Western studios (such as Ahimsa in Toronto) emphasize philosophy and meditation to accommodate the spiritually curious, India, too, is changing to accommodate foreign visitors. Ashrams like RYP offer courses approved by international accreditation boards but include weekly outings, free time to explore, on-site massages and easy forgiveness if you break evening silence to gossip with your new friends.
More traditional Ashrams do still exist, such as Parmarth Niketan. They’re more religious and expect their students to adhere to philosophies and rules, such as modest dress, evening silence and attendance at ceremonies. The food may be minimalist, excluding even onion and garlic because harvesting harms insects and yoga teaches reverence for all living things. The food at RYP is good, offering fresh fruits at breakfast and salads with dal at lunch, though the taste is often subdued to accommodate visitors unaccustomed to colourful Indian flavour.
Everyone has their own room, but expect a thin foam mattress on your bed, cold showers, irregular cleaning, ants and power-outages during monsoons. You don’t go to India for a relaxing retreat, even if your yoga school resembles a wellness resort.
A yoga class at RYP
The schedule is tough; 5 AM wake up, two hours of asana before breakfast, long philosophy and physiology classes in the afternoon and two more hours of asana followed by dinner and meditation. The teachers were excellent, though. A fun and loving personality dwelt beneath their strict disciplinarian front. We all felt encouraged while challenged and gained a strong understanding of the postures.
There were days when I rose at 5 AM, after a sleepless night of traveller’s diarrhea, stiff and sore from all the asanas, barely able to make it up the stairs to the sacred hall, when the teacher announced “today is ashtanga! What’s wrong with you guys? No groaning!”
While I pushed myself, struggling to stay awake in philosophy class, a new perspective came to me, one that made me appreciate present moments. The perspective in my surroundings changed, too.
The yoga hall is on the roof and comes with an awe-inspiring view of the village tucked in among leafy green mountains. On arrival, the village seemed dirty. Rivers of mud ran down the roads when it rained and the buildings looked weathered and unkempt. People stared at me and my schoolmates because we were different.
As time went on, that gap of difference closed and I came to appreciate the little village restaurants, decorated with pillows and brightly coloured tapestries and offering a mix of Indian, Middle Eastern and various baked desserts with ice cream.
I caught myself up in the jewellery stores with owners who read your palms and astrology charts before telling you which stones to wear to dispel moodiness and bring luck. I believed what they read there, and brought it back to discuss with my teachers.
Rajasthan, in Rishikesh city centre, became my favourite haunt. It’s an authentic restaurant, popular among locals with delicious food – just as rich and spiced as you could expect from Indian cuisine.
I also realized that the village around RYP is small enough to make friends while walking into town because the shop owners who sit outside recognize regular passers-by. I became quite fond of the pretty girl in the purse store and a married couple selling malas by the road who would joyfully invite me to sit, even though we spoke different languages.
There is a nightly Aarti ceremony at sunset involving music and floating candles which participants light over a prayer for their family and set adrift in the Ganges. When the water is calm, the after-effect is stunning. Though many locals have a gentle sense of small-town hospitality, it’s still important to dress modestly and be cautious of whom you befriend.
India can be a difficult place to visit with the culture shock of carrying toilet paper, underdeveloped amenities, and persistently honking cars. The rigour of the yoga school may not help. At some point, though, most students forget that those things bothered them and see beauty in their surroundings. At that same point, 5 AM doesn’t seem so early and your body happens to be stronger, more malleable and relaxed.
As difficult as it was, I returned looking younger and feeling much more focussed. I realized you don’t need a resort holiday. As the gurus say, everything you seek is inside you. That includes the discipline it takes to rejuvenate yourself and relax.
RYP is a special alma mater to me, and I would recommend it, but there are an overwhelming number of tourist ashrams in the area. A good way to search is the International Yoga Alliance registry, or by asking around at your local yoga studio.
Photos courtesy of Rishikesh Yoga Peeth
